As the great satirist Petrosyan used to say: “If you have any sausage skin left, don’t throw it away!”
Based on this principle, I want to share some crafts from my own piggy bank.
Perhaps many have long enjoyed such homemade, but I do not exclude. that this information will be useful to a considerable number of motorists who independently maintain and repair their “iron horses”. p>
Let's start with the most difficult.
Probably, someone, especially the one who received the garage as a legacy from his grandfather or father, somewhere in the corner, keeps an old television set in dust and cobwebs, perhaps even a lamp and even black and white. It is not important. It is important that his power supply unit is assembled according to the classical transformer circuit. As I recall, such TVs ran out on II UPIMCT-first on integrated circuits.
This very transformer is useful to us. Open the back wall and find the most weighty (after the kinescope) unit inside the TV - the mains transformer. Most of the Soviet TVs of the 70s, 80s, they were the brand of the vehicle (power transformer - like so) with numbers indicating its nominal power. The most common - TC-180-tube black and white, TC-250, etc. up to 350 watts. The parameters of these transformers are widely represented in the internet.
Structurally, these transformers are made on two U-shaped cores, compressed with tin strapping on nuts. The windings are located on two coils. and the network consists of two halves, on each coil. The network windings are located under all others, below (ie, under the network ones) there may be a screening winding with one output per mass.
A feature of these transformers is the same gear ratio - the transformation ratio - 0.32 Volts per turn, that is, if you wind 10 turns, we get 3.2 Volts.
So, I broke the transformer out of the TV found in the trash, disassembled, rolled up the extra windings and wound the secondary with a thick wire, based on "12 Volts". Winding distributed on both coils equally and that's what happened. p>
Wound up the secondary. p>
Connect, plugged into the outlet, it turned out! at the output of 12 volts.
Now you can directly connect to the transformer carrying lamps and other heaters from the auto assortment. that is not afraid of AC.
D25 diodes (25 amps) assembled a rectifier bridge ("nose to nose, tail to tail, turned out bridge" ktn, associate professor of electronics department RASanadze)
As a result, in the garage, we have a fully-fledged powerful source of direct current. Although start the motors, even though the lights turn on.
Transformer with rectifier p>
For more advanced use (radio, etc. electronics, we put at the output a 4000 microfarad capacitor at 50 volts (do not confuse polarity).
Next is a complete homemade fantasy.
Having a little imagination, adding secondary coils up to 17-20 volts, connecting an ammeter with 10-15 Amps in series with the load (rectifier output), arranging a regulator either on a rheostat or on an autotransformer (I use it myself) in the primary winding, we get a wonderful charger for battery.
Autotransformer - Latr p>
Let it not be automatic, but that is why it allows you to “revive” even the most dead batteries.
Well, in a simple form, the rectifier is able to check any motor or light bulb. Equipped with a cigarette lighter socket, it is able to launch many gadgets that are available in the motorist's arsenal.
The second of the "world of electronics" - the simplest probe. able to determine the polarity of the voltage and "detect" the shortest pulses. I described it in detail in the community "Kulibin Club" www.drive2.ru/c/1207939/ p>
Third, not even a "fixture", but a spare part. This is the simplest homemade silencer.
Once, a long time ago, in the late 80s, while serving in the city of Omsk, I owned my first car, the Brokeback Zaporozhets ZAZ-965. There was, the usual situation for a car enthusiast - the muffler burned out. In those days, with a shortage of everything, it was simply impossible to get a new one on an outdated car. So they told me "experienced" to make a silencer from a 7-liter aviation portable oxygen cylinder and ordinary water pipes. Schematically, this silencer is a metal container (case), in my case a balloon in which two welded tubes are plugged, plugged in inside the cylinder, the pipes, they, inside the cylinder, have numerous narrow slits (openings) for the passage of gases. The cavity inside the cylinder is filled with mineral water.
In reality, the muffler turned out to be somewhat more complicated (those who are familiar with the motor of the 30-koi, who know), had 3 entrances and one exit. It turned out very cool. At first, the silencer whistled through burrs in the slots, then they got burned and the sound "was ennobled.
Last year, we had to recall this experience, when a unit was purchased for country needs - a power station. 4.5 kW power. Bought with hands on the cheap. Everything worked perfectly for him, but the silencer was completely absent.
Scraps of pipes were found at the dump, of which a muffler was welded according to the above scheme. p>
Scrap metal silencer p>
By the way, the welding machine worked from the same unit, which announced the surroundings with an airplane roar.
The silencer was very successful and "quiet." The neighbor in the country was surprised by the successful scheme.
Silencer on the unit p>
In the photo - the unit at the time of its installation on the wheels. Still, 85 kg.
Next - simple, but handy homemade.
Each motorist has empty cans of oil, antifreeze, and other auto-liquids.
So, for example, and a large canister of 10-20 liters is an excellent container for draining oil. It is only necessary to cut a “window” with a knife in one of the sides, leaving a border around the window at the top. p>
The canister - capacity for discharge. p>
As a result - we get a container for draining the oil, which can be substituted for a car. The container has a handle, and the left bezel will prevent the drained liquid from spilling out when the container is pulled out from under the machine.
Also from the canister you can cut the excellent spatulas for applying putty during body repair. p>
Canister spatula p>
Spatulas can be cut to any shape and flexibility. Another useful feature of them is that they are perfectly cleaned from hardened putty.
Well, "for a snack." Again, from the canister, by cutting off the bottom with low walls, we get an excellent variety for small bolts, gadgets and other crap, which inevitably tries to “run away” and roll away while working.
Such sortovichek is convenient also for the tool during the work.
Another unexpected use of such a "sortovichka" - capacity to drain special fluids in "narrow" places. With it, I managed to drain the hydraulic oil from the power steering tank on the Volga, knocking the tank into such a drip tray, without disconnecting the hoses from the tank, and as a result I didn’t spill a drop. p>
Something like that. Undoubtedly, everyone will find a couple of such trifles in the "zagashnik", I suggest sharing experience. p>